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Ingredients

Make sense of the names on your label. Explore what each ingredient does and where it fits in skincare.

Chemical structure: Allantoin

Allantoin

A skin-conditioning ingredient used in skincare and some skin-protectant products. It is usually a supporting part of the formula, rather than the ingredient on the front of the bottle.
Chemical structure: 1,3-Butylene glycol

Butylene glycol

A supporting ingredient that dissolves other materials and helps control a formula's flow. A long chemical name can describe an ordinary formulation job rather than a headline skincare active.
Simplified acrylic-acid repeating unit in carbomer

Carbomer

A polymer used to thicken gels and keep a formula consistent. It usually helps the product hold its texture rather than supplying the skin benefit advertised on the bottle.
Black line drawing of Centella asiatica leaf sprig

Centella asiatica

A plant extract often called cica. Small topical studies have explored hydration and soothing effects, but different centella extracts and finished formulas are not interchangeable.
Chemical structure: Example ceramide: N-stearoylphytosphingosine

Ceramides

A family of lipids found in the outer skin barrier and used in moisturisers. Ceramide NP is one label name; the blend and delivery system matter as much as the presence of a ceramide.
Chemical structure: Lauramidopropyl betaine

Cocamidopropyl betaine

A surfactant that helps water mix with oil and dirt so they can rinse away. It is different from Betaine, the ingredient seen in some hydrating essences and toners.
Ginseng, source plant and root

Ginseng

A plant ingredient used in several skincare forms, from root extract to seed oil. Ginseng research is promising, but these different preparations should not be treated as one proven anti-ageing treatment.
Chemical structure: Glycerin

Glycerin

A moisture-attracting ingredient that helps skin feel softer and keeps formulas from drying out. It may be a familiar name rather than a fashionable one, but it has a useful job.
Black line drawing of Camellia sinensis tea leaf sprig

Green tea

A tea-derived skincare ingredient studied for its polyphenols and antioxidant properties. Leaf extract, leaf water and purified EGCG are different preparations, so the exact label matters.
Hyaluronic acid repeating structure

Hyaluronic acid

A water-binding ingredient used in hydrating skincare. Hyaluronic Acid and related forms such as Sodium Hyaluronate turn up in many serums, essences and creams.
Chemical structure of niacinamide (pyridine-3-carboxamide)

Niacinamide

Niacinamide-containing moisturisers have been studied for the appearance of uneven pigmentation. The results apply to the tested formulas and do not establish how every niacinamide serum will perform.
Chemical structure: Panthenol

Panthenol

A moisture-supporting ingredient often found in comfort-focused skincare. Panthenol is also known as provitamin B5; dexpanthenol is one form studied in topical preparations.
Chemical structure: Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol

A preservative that helps keep cosmetics from spoiling through microbial growth. Preservatives have a practical job in water-containing skincare, which is repeatedly exposed to fingers and applicators.
Black line drawing of Pieces of raw propolis resin

Propolis

A resinous material bees use in their hives, included in some skincare extracts. It is a complex mixture, and natural origin does not rule out contact allergy.
Black line drawing of Rice panicle and leaf

Rice extract

Rice-derived ingredients come in several forms, including extracts and bran water. They are not one standard ingredient with one guaranteed brightening or moisturising effect.
Black line drawing of Garden snail in side view

Snail mucin

A filtered snail secretion used in hydrating skincare. It is a mixture, not one chemical molecule, so a single molecular drawing would not represent snail mucin.
Chemical structure: Squalane

Squalane

A moisturising emollient used to give skincare a smooth feel. Squalane is the saturated, more stable relative of squalene; the two names do not mean quite the same thing.
Chemical structure: α-Tocopherol

Tocopherol

A form of vitamin E used as an antioxidant and skin-conditioning ingredient. Its presence can serve the formula itself; it does not establish that a product will erase scars or treat pigmentation.
Chemical structure: Water

Water

The base of many skincare formulas. Water helps dissolve ingredients and forms part of creams and lotions; it is doing a formulation job even when it is not the headline ingredient.